I never imagined falling in love with a French city other than Paris, but Nantes has completely stolen my heart.

As the largest city in the Pays de la Loire region, Nantes is a captivating blend of vibrant culture, history, and modern innovation.

Here, life is lived at a different pace.

The locals embrace a leisurely rhythm, savoring art, food, and conversation in a way that feels worlds apart from the frenetic American hustle.

Nantes embodies this joie de vivre, inviting us all to pause, reflect, and revel in life’s pleasures.

Day 1

On my first day in Nantes, my host served an American breakfast of bacon and eggs to make me feel at home.

“Nobody eats breakfast here,” he complained. “They only want croissants and tea or coffee.”

I didn’t let him know that I secretly wanted croissants and coffee, but I enjoyed my breakfast nonetheless.

Afterward, my wife and I set out to explore the city. With Nantes’ excellent public transportation, getting around was a breeze.

Machines de l’Île

We began our adventure at Les Machines de l’Île, an enchanting world of mechanical artistry that blends fantasy and engineering.

When we arrived, we were immediately greeted by the towering mechanical elephant — nearly 40′ (12 meters) tall and weighing over 48 tons.

This wasn’t just a sculpture; it walked, trumpeted, and even sprayed water from its trunk, much to the delight of children who screamed in joy as they were splashed.

Watching the elephant lumber through the grounds, I was in awe of its lifelike movements and the sheer ingenuity behind its creation.

As we explored further, we stumbled upon the Carrousel des Mondes Marins, a stunning three-story carousel inspired by sea creatures.

From whimsical fish to towering underwater monsters, each intricately detailed figure on the carousel transported us to an otherworldly dream.

We paused as my wife enjoyed a refreshing ice cream cone, and we soaked in the whimsical atmosphere.

Nearby, a performer delighted a group of children with gigantic bubbles, adding to the magic of the scene.

Their laughter, combined with the mechanical wonders around us, created a moment of pure happiness.

Château des Ducs de Bretagne

After taking in these mechanical wonders, we shifted our focus to the historical side of Nantes with a visit to Château des Ducs de Bretagne.

Originally constructed in the 13th century, this fortress once served as the residence of the Dukes of Brittany and has since witnessed centuries of power struggles, royal unions, and revolutions.

But beyond its grandeur and beauty, the Château tells a darker story—Nantes’ deep involvement in the Atlantic slave trade.

By the 18th century, Nantes had become France’s largest slave-trading port, responsible for outfitting ships that transported over half a million enslaved Africans to the Americas.

The museum within the castle dedicates significant space to this sobering history, featuring displays of how the city’s wealth grew at the expense of human lives.

In one of the rooms, there is a model of a slave ship, its cramped quarters a stark reminder of the atrocities committed during this period. Documents detailing the economics of the trade, including bills of sale and ledgers, showcased the cold, transactional nature of a system that commodified human beings. The museum does an excellent job of balancing the need to preserve the city’s rich heritage while also confronting its painful past.

Leaving the Château, I felt a mix of awe and reflection.

Le Bouffay

Afterwards, we took a stroll through Le Bouffay to explore the shops and soak in the vibe.

I admired the statues and street art that adorned the neighborhood and the diversity of people who inhabited the area.

We ended our time in Le Bouffay with a relaxing stop at Chez Lulu, a cozy spot where we ordered a plate of sausages and a bottle of wine.

Watching locals laugh and chat over their meals, I soaked in the easy-going atmosphere that is so different from the hustle I’m used to. The atmosphere was infectious and invited you to linger and simply be.

My wife and I struck up a conversation with two women sitting at the next table. Even though they spoke little English, we still managed to communicate.

“Where are you from?” one of them asked.

“We’re from Texas,” my wife replied.

“Texas?” One of them repeated with a smile. “Cowboy! Cowboy!” She mimicked a lasso motion to make her point clear.

We all laughed and lifted our glasses in a toast—proving that travel is as much about connecting with people as it is about the places you visit.

Day 2

Musée d’arts de Nantes

The next day, I delved deeper into the Nantes art scene with a visit to the Musée d’arts de Nantes, which houses an impressive collection of art ranging from the 13th century to contemporary works.

The Musée d’arts de Nantes is a treasure trove for art lovers, and I was immediately captivated by the variety of works on display.

Many of the paintings, particularly the realistic, religious-themed pieces, felt like scenes straight out of a movie. The detail and emotion captured in these works made it easy to imagine the stories unfolding right in front of me.

One of the highlights was seeing pieces by Pablo Picasso, whose bold style and striking compositions stood out among the more traditional works.

Alongside these modern masterpieces were classical statues that exuded timeless beauty and craftsmanship.

The museum also featured a remarkable collection of works by abstract artists, offering a diverse range of styles and interpretations from abstract to modern.

Each room brought something new and exciting, making it a truly dynamic experience.

While I was there, the museum featured two special exhibitions.

I was immediately drawn into Pierrick Sorin’s exhibition, Faire bonne(s) figure(s).

Sorin, a notable video artist and graduate of the Nantes School of Fine Arts, has a distinct talent for blending humor and introspection in his work.

The exhibit showcased his personal collection, and what I loved most was how creative, humorous, and interactive it all felt.

From the moment you step in, you’re not just an observer—you become part of the art.

Sorin’s installations often involve self-filming and imaginative, makeshift scenes that mix real and fictional elements. There was one where he inserted a figure into NASA footage to interact with the astronauts.

Some pieces felt deeply introspective, pushing me to reflect on the clumsy nature of human conditions, while others brought to mind the slapstick charm of Mr. Bean.

His work is often likened to the cinematic styles of Georges Méliès or Jacques Tati, and that influence was clear throughout the exhibit.

Sorin’s ability to create characters that bumble through life with a burlesque touch added a layer of comic absurdity that I found both entertaining and thought-provoking.

The next special exhibition was “Prière de toucher! L’Art et la Matière,” which translates to “Please Touch! Art and Matter.”

This interactive art experience encourages visitors to engage with the artwork through touch, highlighting the physical and tactile nature of art.

What made it even more special was its focus on inclusivity. The attendant explained that the exhibit was designed to allow blind people to experience art in a meaningful way.

We were handed blindfolds, and one of us was instructed to act as a guide while the other wore the blindfold and described the artwork through touch.

I had never experienced art this way before, and it was exhilarating. In most museums, you’re warned not to touch the art, but this exhibit flipped that notion entirely.

Feeling the textures, contours, and materials of each piece brought a new depth of understanding and connection to the art.

It was an intimate and immersive experience that challenged my usual way of interacting with artwork, and I left with a deeper appreciation for how art can be experienced beyond sight.

A Fortunate Stroke of Serendipity

After exploring the museum, we stopped for a quick lunch and decided to try a local favorite—Skumenn Pale Ale.

Brewed by the independent Brasserie Skumenn, this beer comes from a brewery in Brittany, near Rennes, that prides itself on crafting organic, locally sourced brews.

The Pale Ale was the perfect refreshment after our morning of art, offering a crisp, light flavor with just the right balance of hops. It was smooth and easy to drink, making for a satisfying and relaxing pause in our day.

We continued our day with a leisurely stroll through the streets of Nantes, soaking in the city’s charm. So leisurely, in fact, that we lost our way, but it turned out to be a serendipitous detour.

We found ourselves standing before the magnificent Cathédrale Saint-Pierre et Saint-Paul, a striking example of Gothic architecture that towers over the city.

Though we couldn’t go inside due to ongoing construction, the cathedral’s intricate stonework and towering spires were awe-inspiring.

As we admired the facade, the sound of music filled the air. A street musician, standing in front of the cathedral, strummed his guitar and sang passionately in French.

I’ve always enjoyed supporting local artists, so I tossed a few euros into his case, appreciating the soulful performance that added another layer of charm to our unexpected adventure.

Day 3

On our last day in Nantes, we embraced the laid-back rhythm of the city and decided to truly unwind, just like the locals.

We started the day with a peaceful walk along the Loire River, the longest river in France, which runs through the heart of Nantes.

This river, once the lifeblood of the city as a major port and trading hub, now offered us a tranquil setting to reconnect and slow down.

My wife and I felt at ease, enjoying each other’s company, free from the usual demands of life.

Along the way, we stumbled upon some vibrant street art hidden under one of the bridges and even spotted a woman casually walking her cat on a leash—just another quirky surprise from this charming city.

Next, we wandered through the Jardin des Plantes, a beautiful botanical garden brimming with creativity.

The park felt like a whimsical retreat, where art and nature merged effortlessly.

Playful sculptures dotted the grounds, and the small merry-go-round and petting zoo added a lighthearted touch, making it a popular spot for both locals and tourists to pause and savor the day.

Keeping with the theme of water, we crossed town to La Casa, a tropical-themed café set on a boat along the Erdre River. The semi-covered terraces and picturesque views created the perfect backdrop for relaxation.

As we sipped our drinks, gazing at the calm waters, it was easy to let go of all thoughts of work, stress, and worries.

For that moment, it was just us, the river, and the gentle joy of being fully present in life—joie de vivre at its finest.

That evening, I wanted to surprise our host with a special birthday dinner at Le Lion et L’Agneau, a Michelin-star restaurant known for its refined take on Southwestern French cuisine.

Although he wasn’t accustomed to fine dining, I managed to convince him to try it. We hopped into an Uber, only to discover the restaurant was closed for August, a popular vacation month in France when many businesses shut down.

While I was disappointed, my host was relieved. “I know a better place,” he said with a grin. “It’s called Wok Gourmand. Not as fancy, but you won’t spend as much.”

Wok Gourmand turned out to be a Chinese buffet restaurant, and the irony of ending our trip at a buffet in France wasn’t lost on me.

But as we dug into the surprisingly tasty food—complete with pale crawfish instead of the dark red ones I was used to—I realized that the joy of the evening didn’t depend on Michelin stars.

Though we didn’t dine in the most glamorous spot, I left with something even better—a joyful night spent laughing and connecting with people who cared about me.

Nantes had helped me rediscover the simple pleasures in life: good food, good company, and the freedom to slow down and just enjoy the moment.

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